On the off chance that you missed them, find Parts 1, 2 and 3 first.
You’ll hear the word substrate utilized a great deal in mushroom development. Basically, the medium your mycelium will be developing in. As a rule, this will be a type of regular waste item, for example, straw, wood chips, sawdust or even paper. At the point when individuals allude to “fruiting substrate”, the goal of the substrate is to deliver mushrooms. On the other hand you can create substrate to extend it to more substrate as opposed to fruiting it straightforwardly.
To begin, at the very least what you’ll require is:
a weight cooker
a holder to hold the substrate in (for the most part channel fix packs)
a wellspring of sawdust/wood chip, wheat
For the vast majority of my shiitake develops, I use eucalyptus sawdust (typically blue gum fines) and wheat grain for the substrate. Most sorts of hardwood sawdust will function admirably, in a perfect world they’ve been matured a piece (not very green) and are a decent size. I find that “fines” are a perfect size, yet on the off chance that you have a blend of coarse and truly fine sawdust it functions admirably as well. In the event that your sawdust is as fine as powder, it will get waterlogged and the mycelium will set aside a long effort to colonize it as there isn’t sufficient air space between sawdust particles. In the event that your sawdust is excessively coarse, there will be an excessive amount of air space between particles influencing your yields and it’s likewise harder to gather into packs without puncturing them.
Getting the correct hydration for your substrate is significant. With either to an extreme or too little water and your mycelium will take more time to colonize or your yields will be lower. It’s typically better keep your substrate on the drier side, as waterlogged substrate tends to pollute all the more without any problem. To test if your substrate has the perfect measure of hydration (known as field limit), the suggested path is by doing a crush test. To do this, get a bunch of the hydrated sawdust and crush it as firmly as could be expected under the circumstances. Just a couple of drops of water should trickle out; in excess of a couple of drops and you’ve hydrated it to an extreme. In the event that there are despite everything dry patches and no water coming out you’ll have to include somewhat more water.
An assortment of bluegum fines of various coarseness
Credit: The Mushroom Guide mushroommedia
For my arrangement, I locate that a decent proportion is 1kg of sawdust, 250g of wheat grain and 1.6L of water. For a commonplace dry sawdust you’ll require roughly 1.5L of water to 1kg of sawdust. In the event that you have a steady gracefully of a similar kind of sawdust, a great method to work out the perfect measure of hydration is by utilizing some kitchen scales. Get your scales and weigh out 100 grams of sawdust into a holder and afterward include 100ml of water. Mix the blend and continue including a modest quantity of water (possibly 10ml at once) and give it a press each time you add water to check whether it’s a field limit. When you’ve worked out the correct proportion, you can utilize that proportion when you’re weighing out bigger sums. I find that grain just requires around 250-500ml of water to 1kg of wheat.
Coarser bluegum and a flaky grain
Credit: The Mushroom Guide
Blending and getting ready packs
When making sacks, I as a rule make 6 little packs one after another. This sum fits precisely into my All American 921 weight cooker. Each sack contains 500 grams of sawdust, 125 grams wheat and 800ml of water. I weigh out 3kg of sawdust into an esky (protected froth holder), include 750 grams of wheat top and afterward blend it completely before including 4.8L of water. When I’ve included the water I combine everything until there’s no water at the base of the esky. I at that point convey the blend equally into every one of the 6 sacks.